Bisay Falls at Mt. Kairukan

In the outskirts of Morong exists a small village tucked away in the rolling mountains. Aetas (or Aytas / Kulot) or those with Aeta lineage make up most of the community's population. Apart from them, it is unlikely you will see anyone else journeying up the mountain on a regular basis. But the few who do come closer to another Philippine treasure.

Though small in stature, they were sturdy young men. Peering through cigarette smoke, they pointed at the mountain that needed to be surpassed in order to reach Bisay Falls. Puffing more smoke, they asked me to think long and hard before we headed out on this expedition. They explained to me why.

Most visiting hikers come during the summer months when an easy dry trail is bulldozed. And even then, almost all hikers stay the night at the falls due to the exhaustion. I, on the other hand, would be hiking in the middle of the rainy season and along a muddy and narrow trail. Not only that, but I would also need to head back shortly after reaching the waterfalls.

Since I was adamant about reaching the waterfalls, the two young Aeta men flicked their cigarettes away and stood up. As if preparing for a hard workout, they took their shirts off and laid them on their shoulders. One of them revealed a pair of tattoos on his back that I was not sure of what of. And so we left the nursery where they plant for food and started off on the long hard trail of Mt. Kairukan.

It began easy enough. I was even amused by the new plants and large trees I saw. They told me to feel free to ask anything so I rattled away with several "What's this called?" or "Ano ang tawag dito?" And they had an answer for every one of them. I cannot even remember the majority of what they had told me, but perhaps next time I will bring a notebook to write down the knowledge that they shared. Some of the large trees had names like tungkod langit, lawaan or laoaan, and tag-isang bayawak. Some trees were silky smooth while others seemed to have large warts growing on them. A plant, known as Is-is (which is tagalog for "scrub"), is actually used to scrub the stains and dirty markings off pots and pans. The Aetas told me that this was a popular place for local Filipino taxonomists. We also passed by a smoking pile of dirt, which is where coal was being made.

Soon, however, I lost interest in asking out of curiosity as I paid more particular attention to my hard-pumping heart. It truly was a difficult trail. Not only was it very long, but it was steep and very slippery. A lot of strain were being placed on my legs (particularly the calf muscles and ankles) and back. I was sweating profusely, and my shirt was proof of it, which camouflaged beautifully with the surroundings. Once we reached a peak, I thought that we had made it. But they informed me that it was only the halfway point and that it is just as difficult going downhill. Slipping, sliding, and shin-straining, we carefully made our way through the jungle once more. Morning turned into night in a matter of a few hours due to the dense foliage and tree canopies. And just as you think you are about to collapse from shear exhaustion, a crashing of water brings temporary relief and energy back through your veins.

We had made it to Bisay Falls. The magnificent sight of the towering waterfalls crashing down gracefully into a blue-green pond brought a smile to our faces. No one wanted to jump in though, as it was freezing. Despite our hot sweaty bodies, we were so high up and in so deep into the jungle that we were shivering from the cold breeze that the crashing water created. But I just could not resist. In I went into the frigid water. I collected some water from the falls and savored every drop as I was very thirsty from the extreme hike.

There was not much time to spare to enjoy the scenery, so off we were to make it back before dark. It was much more difficult on the way back. Hunger pangs and cramps struck. My muscles were now sore and my joints aching every step of the way. I soon had to go barefoot as even my slippers or tsinelas gave in. I was dizzy and slipped and fell many times, sometimes with barely enough energy to get back up right away. But we did make it back. The Aetas told me to be proud, as only seven hours had passed.

My two Aeta buddies guided me all the way back, making short comments every now and then about the plants and trees to help me forget about my tired body. Coincidentally, one of them is the son of an Aeta forest ranger I had met before. Although I would have a fever that evening after coming back home and would continue to have a fever for three and a half days straight (and my body is still weak as I type this), I did not totally regret the experience as the waterfalls remain enchanting as I recall it in memory today.

Bisay Falls, Mt. Kairukan, Sitio Kanawan / Canauan, BTPI, Morong, Bataan, SBMA, Zambales Pictures / Photos: